Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2004

With its narrow, unassuming shop-front entrance, Numidie could easily be passed by, but you'd miss a treat. A bohemian, 1960s air (inspired by dark-hued, slightly shabby walls hung with understated artwork), friendly service and an eclectic selection of good-value North African and southern French dishes - the owner is a Berber from Marseilles - make for a winning combination. Dishes range from duck breast with violet confit and pomegranate juice, bouillabaisse and red mullet stuffed with garlic and herbs to tagines and couscous. Upstairs, North African music played discretely; those in the packed downstairs wine bar were entertained by a singer (English) with guitar. A starter of char-grilled baby squid stuffed with garlicky crab was superlative, more than compensating for a dull house salad. Next, a pleasing tagine of sea bream came in a vividly spiced, olivey tomato sauce; and an extremely competent couscous kabyle contained merguez, grilled chicken and lamb served correctly with separate dishes of robust chickpea and vegetable sauce and harissa to be added to taste. A pud of pear poached in red wine, stuffed with almond paste and served with balsamic ice-cream was a tricky combination pulled off with panache.

Numidie (awarded red star)
48 Westow Hill, London SE19 (020 8766 6166/www.numidie.co.uk). Gipsy Hill rail.
Lunch served noon-4pm Sat, Sun
Dinner served 6.30pm-late Tue-Sun
Main courses £7.25-£12.50. Credit MC, V.


First published in The Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide, p310, 21st Edition 2004. Visit www.numidie.co.uk for more information.